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Sendays, Bloody Sendays

March 25, 2013

We’ve been hitting up Governor Stable a bunch lately to take advantage of the great friction that is only found there during the colder months.  Also, the conditions at our other favorite spot, Coopers, has been quite horrendous all winter – either covered in snow or seeping from the snow that just melted.  Paul, Dylan and Nate found that out the hard way when they decided that they were tired of PA diabase and drove out to WV, only to hike in for an hour and find completely soaked sandstone.

On St. Patrick’s Day, Eric, Outdoor Mitch, the Maxes and I met up with Avi R and his crew (yes, Mitch did go climbing outside in preparation for his first real climbing trip in April!)  First project of the day was Vulture (V7).  The second hold had recently broke, which may have made the first move a little easier but not the crux (in our opinion).  Rock conditions were as perfect as they could be, and Mario Max got the first send.  This gave the rest of us motivation to keep trying, and I and Wario Max sent too.  Wario Max (aka Shark Max) kept trying because he couldn’t leave without Maxing out the boulder, even though he basically ripped open all of his tips.  We failed in getting any photos or video though.

Then, Eric bloodied up Tomb Traverse (V4) and the Maxes kept trying the heinous top out of Gin and Juice (V9).  Wario cut up his fingers so much that he had to take the next week off.  Mario was super close but his shoulder started to hurt and he decided to save it for his trip to J-tree and Bishop this week.  So, what else is there to do on St. Patty’s Day than car bombs at the boulders?  Or mini car bombs if you’re a chugging wimp like me.

Yesterday, Esten, Art, Eric, Wario Max and I met up with Chris and Stu, and also with Mike and some others for a bit.  The day started with a lot of sending.  Max kept working on Gin and Juice, but still was having trouble with the slopey top out.  Enter Art, who placed the flask of Scotch on top of the boulder.  And boom!  First V9 for Shark Max!

Max sending Gin and Juice (V9)

Max sending Gin and Juice (V9)

Meanwhile, Eric was working out his crazy (as usual) beta for Tomb Traverse (V4) and sent shortly after.  I’m pretty sure there was still blood involved though.  Next, we went to work on Casanova (V6), and Eric and I used being short to our advantage and sent that one.  Art, after saying he was only going to send V0s, re-sent Casablanca (V3).

Jackie sending Casanova (V6)

Jackie sending Casanova (V6)

A bunch of us made attempts at Chai Wallah (V3), but only Eric sent.  As I’ve said before, V3s are super hard here!  And after watching Eric on the last move and top out, I can’t say that I wanted to keep working it.

Chris working Chai Wallah (V3)

Chris working Chai Wallah (V3)

Then, the large group went over to Creekside Traverse (V6).  Stu, Eric, Max and I were all making it to the end but the top out was harder than it looked.  Personally, falling off of climbs while standing up on the top out is my specialty.  I don’t know what was wrong with everyone else.  😉  It will remain a project for next time.

Eric working Creekside Traverse (V6)

Eric working Creekside Traverse (V6)

Max, having already sent his goal for the day, decided to peace out and Art and Esten had about zero motivation.  Art had sent his one climb for the day already.  Then Mike, Chris and Stu left as well.  I was just exhausted from the weekend.  Eric, though, remained motivated enough to give Vulture a few more goes.  Maybe next time he will decide on which shoes are best for that climb since it seemed to be an issue that day.  We were so out of energy that we didn’t even stop for beers on the way home.  Then, it snowed.  Welcome to spring!

Here are the rest of Art’s photos:

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One Comment leave one →
  1. September 7, 2013 5:08 am

    ダウン duvetica

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