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Running from the rain

September 9, 2012

Part of the crew goes rogue.

The climbers: Jackie, Max M, Bob
Hydration: Schlafly Pumpkin Ale, Schlafly Dry Hopped APA, New Belgium Somersault, Peak Organic Espresso Amber Ale, Yellow + Blue Sauvignon Blanc, Samuel Smith’s Organic Cider, probably some other beer
Official trip song aka song that Max plays over and over and over again: “The Fire”

For Labor Day weekend a group of us reserved campsites at Grayson Highlands, but Hurricane Isaac had other plans.  That Friday, Art and Esten headed to Coopers on the hope that the weather would hold out there.  But when Jackie, Max and Bob left on Sat. morning, the forecast for the weekend had took a turn for the worst.  So, after stopping at Wegmans in Frederick, we decided to head north.  The first stop was a day at Gretna.

After picking up the new bouldering guide at the visitor center, we headed to the Coleflesh Area.  Max hadn’t been to Gretna in years but thought he had sent Coleflesh (V5).  After attempting it again, he decided that maybe that hadn’t been the case.  It’s definitely a problem that is more short-person friendly (it was Jackie’s first 5 years ago and Eric also crushed it).  Max and Bob worked on it for awhile before deciding that they would return during less humid temps.  The crew moved over to Body Snap (V4 stand, V6 sit) and worked on that.  The sit start seemed pretty damn hard.  Max finally figured out the stand start, and that was all the sending outside of warmups that day.  Our time at Gretna ended with Bob and Jackie working on Smiley Face (V4) while Max napped.  Last year, Marie had figured out some awesome toe-hook dropknee beta but she and Jackie were too exhausted to send it that day.  This time, Jackie and Bob exhausted themselves trying to remember the beta and then figuring out the next move so they couldn’t put the send together.  Next time, this problem is going down.

Dinner was yummy crab cheese fries and more at Ozgood’s, and then the real adventure began.  We decided to head up to the Gunks for Saturday and Sunday, but no reservable campsites were available for Sat. night.  We figured we’d make something up.  After not finding any campsites on the way and not really wanting to drive around looking all night, we ended up camping at a Walmart in Jersey.  Seriously.  They allow it – but you just have to leave by the time it opens.  Which, unfortunately for us, was 7am.  And this is not an early morning crew.  Oh well, we survived without waking up to someone with a knife to our face.  Who knows what might happen at a Walmart in Jersey.

We drove up to the Gunks and headed to Peterskill.  After warming up in the Khadejha Area, Max started working on Dwarf Toss (V8) with some other guys.  One of them sent it, but it remains a project for Max.  We headed over to the Big Pappa boulder, where Jackie worked on Mentos (V4) and Delicate Soul (V7).  Bob resent Mentos.  Max slept a lot.  Then Bob and Max worked on Village Idiot (V7) and made good progress.  Jackie found Rocco Never Dies (V7/8) and was immediately excited about the tiny crimps and heel hook.  They finished up the day with her working out the beta on the first few moves.  And all of us drinking wine out of a Nalgene.  We ate dinner at Bacchus and then headed to a local motel because Bob wanted a shower.  Jackie gave Bob her Sam Smith’s Cider, which he probably wished never happened.

On Monday, Bob and Max sent a fun roof problem at Peterskill called Dagobah (V4).  Jackie figured out the beta for the next move on Rocco Never Dies, but couldn’t figure out how to compensate for not being able to reach a good foot before a throw to a big hold.  It will remain a project for next time.  Max slept more while Bob and Jackie tried to figure out Goldfish Mantle (V3), Out of the Frying Pan (V6), and The Gambler (V3).  Jackie gave up because she hates the pebbly holds on these problems.  Bob almost sent The Gambler, but was a little too exhausted at that point.  The crew headed back to DC, stopping for sushi in Harrisburg on the way.  We should’ve known better than to eat sushi in Pennsyltucky.  DON’T DO IT.

Max took some photos with the second worst camera in the world – click here if you want to see them.  But since we don’t have anything good to show you, why don’t you watch this video of people sending all of our projects?  (Thanks guys for the beta 🙂 )

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