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More Pads Needed!

May 30, 2012

What better way to spend Memorial Day than at Coopers?

The climbers: Jackie, Eric, and Max
Guest: Dan
Hydration: Victory Summer Love, Flying Dog Snake Dog IPA, Gouveia Vineyards Whirlwind Rose, Odell IPA

While some of the other pebble wrestlers decided to wake up at 3am Sat. morning for a trip to Graysons, Eric and Max decided to enjoy some sleep and just climb on Monday at Coopers with Jackie, who was up in Connecticut the rest of the weekend.  There, she learned not to trust random people at a CT gym when it comes to suggestions for quality bouldering around New Haven.  But, that’s another story.

Max working Snow Globe (V8)

The small crew started out by warming up in the Tilted Tree Area.  Eric started working on Twist Da Hick (V5) and made good progress, but it was decided that more pads were needed for the highball top – especially with his recent heel injury.  We moved on to Max’s project, Snow Globe (V8? in the guidebook), which is aptly named because chalk swirls around the hole where the problem is found just like a snow globe.  While Max kept hitting the sit start crux move, the warm, humid weather proved to be not conducive to actually holding on to the arete.  We started to regret not making it out to Coopers over the winter for the much better friction on this and other problems like Jackie’s project Coral (V7).

For something out of the sun, we moved over to Roof Problem Variation (V5).  We have all sent Roof Problem (V4), but the variation always seemed more difficult than only one grade harder.  Max worked out a lot of the beta, but again, we really needed more pads. The whole floor under the roof is covered with broken rocks, which are not fun to fall on.  Or even walk on.  So this remains a project for next time.

Then, it was time for some sending.  Eric made pretty quick work of Humility (V5), which Jackie and Max had already sent.  We tried Stink Ray (V4), but quickly gave up as there was a move that was too long for even Max.  Then, we headed down to the Elvis Boulder where Eric sent Anti-Elvis (V4) and Max worked on an unnamed 6/7/8? on the backside of the boulder.  Better temps would make this problem more doable.

Jackie working Roof Problem Variation (V5)

Next we went to look at Rhesus Monkey Butter Cups (V5), a problem that none of us had ever tried before.  Of course, Max figured out that he could just dyno his way past the tiny pockets and was the only one to send.  The rock was too greasy for the short person beta, if there was any.

We ended the day in the Roadside Area, and ran into Dan Brayack, one of the guidebook authors, at Helicopter (V5).  Unfortunately, the problem was pretty wet and even slimy at the bottom.  Jackie worked out the end, but she, Eric, and Dan will have to wait for the problem to dry out for the sends.  We walked over to Mountaineer’s Route Direct (V5), which Dan sent easily despite the wet and greasy holds.  After getting some insight into the grading in the Coopers guidebook, the APW crew decided it was time to start the journey home even though it was still light out.  On the way back, we stopped for food at Puccini’s.  Max ate about 5 times as much as Jackie.  Pretty typical.

Eric took these couple photos on his phone, and then we kind of forgot about pictures.  This is just what happens when Art is off in southern VA.

4 Comments leave one →
  1. May 30, 2012 11:12 pm

    A better way to spend Memorial Day is at Grayson’s. Oh, and the pictures aren’t loading.

  2. May 31, 2012 3:44 pm

    Wonderfully written as always Jackie

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