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A quick recap of a week at Joe’s

May 14, 2012

Here’s a recap from our 7 straight days of climbing at Joe’s Valley.  See our Facebook page for a few photos, and stay tuned for many more pics and videos to come!

Day 1

We met up with Jon and his crew from Boulder, who managed to secure us all a sweet camping spot up near New Joe’s.  After warming up at the U.M.W.A. boulder, we all headed over to Kill By Numbers (V5) in the Mine Cart Area.  It was a super fun problem, which Max, Esten, and Jackie sent.  Next we headed over to the Riverside Area for one of the most classic problems in Joe’s Valley, The Angler (V2), over the water.  Jon and Max also sent Kelly’s Arete (V5), but the problem landed a starting punch when Eric fell off the topout and hurt his heel.  That wasn’t the last that Kelly’s Arete would see from Eric, though (see Day 6).  The day ended with Jackie working on Water Painting (V7) with a bench press spot from Max, but that will remain a project for next time.

Day 2

Max wanted to knock out a couple of his projects from last year early in the week, so we made the hike out to New Joe’s.  We warmed up by cleaning out The Closet Area – Stinky Jeans (V2), Bad Genes (V3), and Pimpin Jeans (V4).  Then, Max headed over to Planet of the Apes (V7), and dispensed of the problem after figuring out the topout beta that had proved troublesome on our last trip.  Esten also got close.  Max also crushed Pocket Rocket (V7), his other project from last year.  Jackie worked on Chips (V7), but kept smashing her face into the wall and wishing that she had longer arms.  Next, Art sent his project from last trip, Self Service (V4) pretty easily.  After heading to the Contact boulder, we smelled something fishy after some easy flashes of the problem called Attention (V6) in the new Joe’s guide.  Looking at the old Utah Bouldering Guide, we saw that the same problem was an unnamed V3 in that version, and Attention was an entirely different problem.  The V3 rating made much more sense.  To end the day, Max and Esten sent Contact (V6) and Art came incredibly close.

Day 3

Tuesday marked Eric’s comeback from his injury, having sat out the previous day at New Joe’s.  We started out by warming up on the Small One Boulder in Right Fork.  Then we went to the Eden Area in Left Fork to check out Bring the Heatwole (V7), a problem that a lot of people had been recommending.  First, the crew gave a shot at Near Beers (V5), but the top proved to be a bit too sketchy.  Jackie and Eric made good progress on Heatwole, but got stuck on a long move.  Apparently knee pads would be a good thing to have on this problem, as Jackie’s right thigh was almost completely black and blue after all the kneebars.  We hiked up the hill to the External Tulips boulder for the most exciting part of the day.  Only a day after sending his first V6, Esten sent Alma (V7).  Eric also sent Alma, his first V7.  And that was while being injured!  Max sent too.

Day 4

We decided to forgo a rest day and go back to New Joe’s so Esten could work on Planet of the Apes again.  We warmed up in Area 51.  In typical Jackie fashion, she forgot her shoes in the car and had to make the trek back and get stared down by some mule deer.  She got back just in time to watch Max send Spam (V7).  Then, Jackie sent a project Sun in My Eye (V5) after realizing that dynoing was much easier than the beta in the book.  Esten went on to work on Planet of the Apes, but the send was not to be that day.  Well, there has to be a reason to return next year!  While Esten was working on Planet of the Apes, Art decided to just take a slider and sneakily send Contact (V6).  The day ended with Max sending Pitbull (V6).  Pepper should be pretty disappointed that Esten didn’t even attempt the problem.

Day 5

On Thursday, we made the drive out to Dairy Canyon, the farthest area in the Right Fork in the new guidebook.  We started out on the Drunk Dig and Cow Patty boulders, as well as an unnamed boulder nearby.  Eric, Esten, and Art sent Drunk Dig (V4), and the guys sent a tricky unnamed problem on the unnamed boulder.  Max started working on Stir the Pie (V9) and became became obsessed.  Jackie gave herself whiplash by just looking up at the long move.  After convincing Max to take a break, the guys tried Scooby Snacks (V7) but couldn’t figure out the topout, and then the crew headed over to the Lactation Station and Vertical Ice boulders.  Jackie worked on Baldwin Bash (V7) for a long time and was excited to realize that the first move was suited well for a figure 4.  But she couldn’t get the topout that day.  Meanwhile, Eric and Esten sent Dime-a-Dozen (V4).  We left Dairy Canyon with a bang, as Max returned to Stir the Pie and sent it before there was even time to set up the video.  It was both his and APW’s first V9!  The day wasn’t over, as Max and Esten both sent the super highball Buoux Crack (V3) and Esten, Eric, and Art sent Bowling Ball (V4).

Day 6

Friday was time for revenge.  After warming up in the Riverside Area, Eric landed the TKO on Kelly’s Arete (V5), the problem that had injured his heel on the first day of climbing.  Eric and Art also returned to Kill by Numbers (V5), but the six straight days of climbing did not help on an overhanging problem.  It will remain a project for them for the next time.  Deciding that they needed some easier problems, the guys went over to the Mine Cart boulder and were surprised to find out that The Wave (V3) involved much more screaming than they had hoped.  But it, along with the other problems on the boulder, were sent.  It became time to head back to Dairy Canyon, where Jackie wanted to send Baldwin Bash.  After following coach’s (aka Max’s) orders – protein, FRS, activation – and watching Max send, she finally got her first V7.  Very fitting that the start involved a figure 4.

Day 7

We were all pretty pooped, but decided that we couldn’t leave Joe’s for a second time without going to see Wills of Fire (V6).  Everyone made some good progress, but we were just too tired to pull the crux moves.  We headed up to Salt Lake for showers, sushi, and finishing the remaining alcohol before barely making our flight the next day.  Til next time!

Oh, and we also sent A LOT of hydration.

One Comment leave one →
  1. esten permalink
    May 14, 2012 5:02 pm

    Thank you AiPW (& everyone we met along the way) for another amazing adventure.__Esten.

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