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We’re Here to Send Your Projects

April 12, 2012

First time diabase experience for a trio of first-time GS’rs.

Climbers: Esten, Max, Art, Pierre, Alice, Priscilla and Paul

Hydration: Talisker 18, Highland Park 12, Tröegs Nugget Nectar, Stone IPA and Green Flash Palate Wrecker

Last Sunday, while Jackie was doing some alpine bouldering for pebble wrestling ex-pats, the crew headed to Governor Stable to work on some of their projects.  This was also the first visit for Pierre, Paul and Alice — also the first time bouldering outside for Alice. Like many times before the crew warmed up on Demi-Loaf before heading over to the Mushroom Cap boulder for Esten to send Mushroom Cap (V3) which is much more difficult than the rating would make you believe. This is a problem that Esten has worked on during several previous trips and which Max sent earlier in the year.  Priscilla also worked on her project Mushroom Crack (V1.)  Pierre sent the problem after first falling off — which for a really solid boulderer, says a lot about that problem.

Alice sending Mushroom Cap (V3)

Alice sending Mushroom Cap (V3)

Alice gave it a shot several times before figuring out the beta and mantling the top out.  Esten gave it a go many times, the last several times saying that he’d try once more than we can move on.  He made it to the top several times, but couldn’t make the last moves.  At least the others sent his project. Also, since the comp was the previous weekend, many of the problems were still labeled and Max saw a label for Fungus Amongus (V4) which they hadn’t looked at before. After working it out a bit, he easily sent that problem.  One more tick for the list.

Pierre sending Cobra (V5)

Pierre sending Cobra (V5)

After warming up on Demi-L

oaf they had walked past Cobra earlier in the day after they warmed up, so they headed back to that area.  Since Max and Esten had previously sent Cobra (V5) they easily ran up it, while the shorter folks just watched. As you can guess, Pierre also sent the problem.  Esten thought it was possible for the short people to work it, if they started on the crimps, but that turned out to be a waste of energy.

The group wanted to throw Pierre on another classic, Breadloaf Arete (V4) which was baking in the sun.  They also noticed that the first hold on the top out, the one your throw for after the undercling had broken and is now is essentially a sloper. After a few attempts, Pierre sent that problem. The group then moved around the corner to play on Keg Stand (V2.)

A few trips ago, Art noticed some guys on a problem which started on Keg Stand but then moved left to finish on the apex.  While folks were doing Keg Stand, Art gave Party Right (V4) a few tries but couldn’t get past the apex, but Esten and Max were able to get the send. Pierre was interested in trying Party Hardy (V9) and gave it a few goes before moving on. Having to get home early, Priscilla and Paul packed up and headed back to the car while Pierre saw a project to work on, Soul Face (V9).  Both he and Max worked on it hitting the top, which was pretty bare and would be better on a cold day with better friction.

Max dynoing The Wave (V6)

Max dynoing The Wave (V6)

Moving on, they headed to Max’s project, C Sit (v5.) which the group had been working on the past few trips and Jackie was the only one who’d sent it. Everyone tried it a few times before Alice made quick work of this project and sent it.  Small girl fingers must be required for this problem. Getting tired of the problem, Max wandered off to look for something new and came back with a dyno problem, Cave Wave (V6) and also scoped out Herr Left and Herr Right. While Esten and Art continued to work on C Sit, Max and Pierre grabbed a few pads to setup for a bad landing on Cave Wave. After a few goes the guys managed the dyno to the finish. Walking back to C Sit, Art and Esten tried a few more times, but this day, only Alice got that send.

Esten working Herr Left (V7)

Esten working Herr Left (V7)

Starting to wear out, the guys headed to over to give a try on Herr Right (V7) which Art had tried years earlier, only to realize he’s neither tall enough or strong enough to send, so Alice and Art just watched as the rest of the guys gave it a go. They all made good progress on the bottom half but could get far on the top half.  Pierre landed badly on one go, missing the pad with one foot. This will remain a project for another time.

The guys also looked at Herr Left, noting that the middle section was just jugs, but after Max scoped out the top out he realized that there was nothing on the top out, although the guidebook says “finishes with easy moves” so maybe they need to give it a try on the next trip.

For a first time at Governor Stable both Pierre and Alice knocked out several great problems so next time we’ll need to venture further back and play on other fun things.

On the previous trip with Chef Kevin, they finally came to the conclusion that Bully’s has a great beer selection, but the food didn’t match the quality of the beers — nearly everything tastes like sweet barbecue and for the price, wasn’t worth it. So, instead they headed to Bube’s Brewery which doesn’t have nearly as good a beer selection, although there are some decent ones. You also had a level of expectation for the food and it generally met their expectations — granted the expectations are generally low. Next time they should come for the murder mysteries or go to the Catacombs below the brewery.

Here’s Art’s photos from the day.

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3 Comments leave one →
  1. April 12, 2012 11:51 pm

    Go Alice!

    By the way, Seth and Kevin both sent C-Sit, so girly fingers not necessary.

  2. Priscilla permalink
    April 15, 2012 1:12 am

    Actually, I didn’t work mushroom crack that day. I made a half assed attempt, and decided I didn’t really want it that day. I did get on Mushroom Cap a few times, and made some progress…

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