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Is it Camping Without a Campfire?

February 28, 2012

Some more sandstone sloper fun.

Climbers: Seb, Shane and Art

Hydration: Talisker 18, Bell’s Pale Ale, Franziskaner Weissbier, Boulevard Dark Truth Stout, Founders Breakfast Stout, Sweetwater IPA, Good People IPA, Tommyknockers Pick Axe IPA, Seb’s Spiced Pumpkin Homebrew

So this continues where the last post finished. In addition to going out for groceries, the group headed out for Shane’s birthday dinner.  Looking for some various barbecue restaurants on yelp, they came upon Full Moon Bar-B-Que which looked like a fast food stop, what, with the drive-through and everything.  They decided to check it out, but before walking in, they asked a portly southern women if it was good. She gave it her recommendation, so the group went in. Although, Art was a little disappointed with his ribs, Shane and Seb enjoyed their meals, even though some of Shane’s chicken was dry. After leaving, they spotted an ABC store across the street, hopeful that they could pickup some birthday tequila, but for some strange reason Alabama ABC stores close at 7p on a Thurs. So, without tequila, they headed to Whole Foods to pick up food and beer. Luckily, Whole Foods carries a nice selection of microbrews, so they grabbed a seemingly large amount of beer, only to learn later that it wasn’t enough.

Heading back to HP40 for a night drinking around the campfire, alas, they found out that there was a campfire restriction that night due to high winds, so they decided to hangout in cozy Cabin 1 and play some Asshole, which isn’t a great idea when you have multiple projects the next day.

Panty Shields (V3)

Seb sending Panty Shields (V3)

On the second day at Horse Pens 40 the crew started off at the Turtle Rock Area to warm up on the Panty Shields Boulder. The group started on various V0s and moved on to send Contraband (V1) and Panty Shields (V3.) Moving on, the headed to the Skywalker area to work on Genesis (V3) where Shane sent the problem and then sent Satanic Verses (V5).  They then decided to head back to their (not Arthur’s) project, Bumboy (V3), which Shane and Seb worked on for a bit before they worked out the beta and made quick work of the problem using some slopers on the far left side. Like the day before, Art just took some pics and hydrated.

Bumboy (V3)

Reaching for hydration on Bumboy (V3)

The group moved over to the Flow Area for Art to make some attempts on Sideline (V5) which he worked during his last trip in November the previous year. After making several attempts, he gave up, saving this project for the next trip and the group moved Shane’s other project, Redneck (V6) to figure out the beta. While working on the problem a Canuck spewed some various unneeded beta, Shane made it to the topout, but didn’t realize there was a hold and foot out left and fell (Jackie made the same mistake  during the last trip). Making a few more attempts, The group decided that they’d call it a day head head back to camp for a steak dinner. Sadly, the high wind was still a problem so, the group couldn’t enjoy a campfire and dinner, so they grabbed some charcoal and grilled their NY Strip steaks and some potatoes.  Which, by the way, Art learned that Shane has the same disgust of onions that Jackie has.

Card Games in Cabin 1

Card Games in Cabin 1. Photo by Sebastian Stewart.

After cooking up the food, they headed into cozy Cabin 1 for some beer and card games …, not Asshole.

The next morning they headed off to the Spirit Area to warm up on Interact (V0) and Stranger (V2) before trying out Spirit (V3) which Seb and Shane got, but Art couldn’t get past the slopers. Instead, Art turned around and worked Bombedil (V3) which he last worked on two Thanksgivings ago on a trip with Max where it the crimps were far to painful on that icy day. This time, he and Shane sent the problem.

Shane sending Bombedil (V3)

Shane sending Bombedil (V3)

Shane sending Redneck (V6)

Shane sending Redneck (V6)

Feeling good with his warm ups, the crew headed to Redneck so that Shane could finish his project. After Seb and Art setup their camera flashes Shane jumped onto the problem and quickly sent his project on his first try that day.

With Shane’s project done Art decided that the group should head to off to the Slider Boulder to check out Cuts Like a Knife (V5), but after touching the crimp, decided to check out Uniball (V4) instead. It took several attempts before they realized a small finger slot on the first move and after that was figured out, the rest wasn’t too bad, although it took Art and Seb several more attempts to get the send. Feeling a bit more confident, Art decided to head back to Cuts Like a Knife to make an attempt. Laying down the crash pads Art grabbed the start hold looked up at the crimp rail and realized he was a tiny bit

Art not working Cuts Like a Knife (V5)

Art not working Cuts Like a Knife (V5). Photo by Sebastian Stewart.

it without ruining his shoulders. Shane and Seb knew better and didn’t even bother with the problem.

Wrapping up the day, the crew headed up the hill to the Eight Ball Boulder for Seb and Shane to send on Eight Ball (V2) then moving over to the High Life Boulder to send WASP (V2) and to work Getcha Some (V5). Wrapping up the day, they headed around the corner for Seb to work on The Kind Flake (V3).  Worn out from the day of bouldering, he managed to get just past the flake but didn’t trust his heel enough on the flake to top out so just dropped down and the group headed back to camp.  Fortunately, the wind had died down so they could enjoy a campfire and decided to cook up their sausages and veggies in the fire. Sadly, they realized they were desperately short on beer with only a few remaining (saving the last Dark Truth Stout for breakfast the next morning.)

Art working Inspect Her Gadget Variation (V4)

Art working Inspect Her Gadget Variation (V4). Photo by Seb.

Waking up for the last morning, the group packed up the cabin and tent and headed off to the Spirit Area to warm up before moving on to Inspect Her Gadget Variation (V4). The crew made several attempts but couldn’t quite figure out the correct beta so they moved on in search of their last problems before heading to the airport.  Walking around, they ended back at Bumboy where Shane sent it again, for the third time and the group called wrapped up and headed to shower and grab some food at the HP40 Restaurant before heading to the airport.

Until next time …

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2 Comments leave one →
  1. February 29, 2012 10:43 am

    That photo of Seb on Bumboy is just classic. Oh, and Redneck is like one of the best problems ever, excited that Shane got the send!

  2. February 29, 2012 7:27 pm

    That’s one helluva ticklist. I miss HP40.

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